Eid brings hope to Ctg motif artisans

Motif artisans of Bihari Colony in Chittagong city's Jhautala area are working round the clock to meet the demand of buyers ahead of Eid.

Although demand for the creative handiwork is increasing, the artisans' fate has not changed much over the years.

There was a time when motif artisan Md Imran used to earn Tk 1 lakh during the Eid season as demand for Zardozi and Karchupi motifs was very high. But their income has dwindled to almost half over the last five years.

With cheaper Indian and Pakistani products flooding the markets, the demand for motifs have slumped, said the artisans.

Also, unavailability of original materials, mostly imported from China and India, and many fashion houses offering a lower rate for motifs have also affected their businesses.

Motif artisans do their handiwork, including Zardozi and Karchupi motifs, on panjabis, saris and salwars.

“Though the demand for motifs is increasing in local markets, our income is decreasing,” said Imran, an artisan for over 13 years. “Before, I used to get orders from many big outlets. Now they prefer Indian and Pakistani products for the low cost.”

Imran also alleged that most of the outlets now have decreased the payment.

For example, he said, “If I take an order of a panjabi at Tk 600, I will have to pay Tk 400 to the workers, Tk 50 for the material cost and Tk 50 to rent a factory. Finally, my profit will be Tk 100.”

But, “If I take an order from a fashion outlet, they will pay me Tk 500 initially for a panjabi and I don't know when I will get the rest of the money,” he alleged.

Imran said pricing of artwork depended on design. “A sari ranges from Tk 5,000 to Tk 50,000. For a Tk 50,000 sari, four workers have to work 10 hours a day for around a month to complete the artwork.”

“Usually, I earn around Tk 12,000 to  Tk 15,000 a month. Now, all of us are eagerly waiting for Eid as the income shoots  up many folds during that time,” he said. “Last year, I earned around Tk 45,000 during the Eid Season.”

He said his target is to earn Tk 80,000 this season.

Like Imran, around 200 motif artisans, mostly Urdu-speaking, are busy completing their orders ahead of Eid in the port city's Jhautala area.

Md Shafiq, who has been in the profession since 1990, said back in the 90s the work flow was good. “…now at best 35 factories are in operation,” he said. “The situation worsened around two years ago when many motif artisans left their traditional profession. And to make ends meet, they were compelled to find jobs in garment factories.”

Md Ali, another artisan, said, “My target is to earn Tk 70,000 this Eid season as it's hard to get work afterwards.”