Iftar Bazar

Each afternoon of Ramzan presents an opportunity for the photographer in me. As early as two hours before sunset, people set up stalls in many streets. They sell Iftari – food for breaking the fast. The vendors devote much energy to preparing and presenting their offerings. Wearing colourful clothes, they cook the food with pomp and flair, often shouting out in unison. Customers, looking forward to breaking their fast, enjoy the carnival atmosphere while picking out their favourite items.

So, whenever I get the opportunity, I visit Iftar markets.

Perhaps the most colourful and vibrant market is the one in Chawk Bazar. I visited it on first Ramzan, reaching at 3pm. The crowds were already thick and everyone pushed and shoved. The wall of people appeared impossible to penetrate but I kept my head down and dived in. The market began at one end with the fruit stalls selling pineapples, melons, papayas, jackfruits. Across the street were dozens of snacks including ghugni, a mash of chick peas served with half a dozen sauces. The meats come a bit later: roast pigeons and quails, legs of lamb, whole chicken kababs, giant skewers of shutli kabab configured in an X, and fried kababs including shami, jali and shashlik. I found two stalls selling the dish called boro baper polai khai. Each vendor claimed his grandfather invented it. The dish, whose name is translated roughly as "that which the boss's son eats" is a concoction of shredded chicken, chick peas, boiled eggs and a motley of spices and seasonings. It was clearly a hit because I could barely manage a clear shot through the two- or three-deep crowd thronging the stalls.

After an hour in the market I ran out of machismo. Claustrophobic, out of breath and drenched in sweat, I stepped away and breathed easy. 

Smaller neighbourhood markets, such as Rampura, Shantinagar and Badda offer the usual standards including halim, jilapis and piyajus. While they might lack the variety and crowds of Chawk, these markets are friendlier for me as I concentrate on photographing the food items. The sellers banter with me, ask to be photographed, and then ask their karigor – the cook – to pose with them.

I visited the Baily Road market on the same day as a RAB cleanup effort. As I photographed halim being ladled from a large pot, the customer told the shop-owner: "Watch out, the photographs will get you into trouble in the courts." Seeing his shocked expression we all burst out laughing.

I made a surprising Iftar discovery in Sylhet when I saw a colourful mixture piled high on a large platter. It looked different than the usual fried or chick-pea items. It took me a while to recognise it as a salad! Made from finely chopped cucumbers, shredded carrots, diced tomatoes, the salad was garnished beautifully. As I stood admiring it (and trying to get a decent photograph) several people stop by and bought packets full. We always hear about how greasy and unhealthy many common Iftar items are; this was a welcome change.

Ramzan is almost over. Most Iftaris will retire until next year. Until then, enjoy them!

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