A feast for the senses in Bhutan

By Afsar Ahmed, back from Bhutan
8 April 2005, 18:00 PM
Photo: Afsar Ahmed
Imagine a traditional festival where dancers recreate the myths and legends of the Himalayan Buddhism in a swirl of colour, music and mystery. One may see a magnificent procession of masked dancers in fine clothes and beautiful jewels re-enacting the traditional battles between the peaceful and wrathful deities, or monks in antique silk robes and more. And on the last morning, at the culmination of the carnival, if one is lucky enough, s/he might witness the rare display of stunningThangka, a four-storeyed-tall silk scroll painting. For this treat for the senses, one has to have the glimpse of the Tshechu Festival which is treated as the "Dance for the Gods, for You and Me."

Situated in a remote region of the eastern Himalayas, Bhutan retains much of the Old World charm and the centuries-old Buddhist traditions. Known to the Bhutanese as Druk Yul or "the Land of the Thunder Dragon," Bhutan has become probably one of the world's last Shangri-Las. This is a country proud of its astounding beauty and rich tradition, and Tshechu Festival or the mask dance festival marks the pinnacle of the Bhutanese annual cycle.

Visitors were captivated one chilly spring morning on March 24. This was the fourth day of the five-day long festival at the Paro Rinpung Dzong courtyard. The dance pieces in the programme had religious significance. Intervals were punctuated by folk dances.

"Annually, on the tenth day of a certain month, every region of Bhutan celebrates the birthday of Guru Rinpoche, the miraculous figure regarded as the second Buddha, with this dance festival performed by monks. For example, in Thimphu, the Tshechu traditionally takes place on the tenth day of the sixth month and in Paro in spring on the tenth day of the first month of the lunar calendar," said Karma Dwandup, a Thimphu resident who came to enjoy the festival.

"Dances are performed to bless and protect onlookers, and it is believed that through the power of the deities invoked during these dances, adversity may be overcome, luck increased, and wishes fulfilled," said Geley Norbu who never misses this mystical festival.

The festival is also a major social gathering--people decked up in their finest traditional attire and jewellery chattering with each other, children running around gleefully while others gathering with eager anticipation to try their luck at gambling. To many this is the only time of year to gain respite from the hard life of subsistence farming.

The festival markets, stallholders and their families, set up in brightly coloured tents, sold their wares. The market was a cornucopia of treats: dried cheese strung onto pieces of twine hung from tent railings, traditional handmade tapestries, rugs and wall hangings.

A spellbound audience watched the dance of the lord of death and his consort (Shinje Yab Yum), dance of the lord of cremation ground (Durdang), dance of the stag and the hounds (Shawa Shachi), dance of the terrifying deities (Tungam),dance of the noble men and ladies, dance of the eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche (Guru Tshen Gye), dance of the sixteen fairies, and others with colourful dresses and masks accompanied with drum beats.