Garments industry calls for serious attention

What might be the probable causes of the recent disarray?

The price of daily commodities has gone sky-high, beyond the capacity of commoners let alone the very low-income groups. They find it simply difficult to maintain a family. Their suppressed frustration might have suddenly found out way in this form.

Since the inception of this industry, a gap between the owners and workers has existed. From the bitter experience of other industrial sector the formation of Trade Union received no attention from any side. Hence, the demand of the workers remained unnoticed and suppressed, as no side seemed to be vocal enough to look into the problems of the workers. As extreme poverty has compelled the workers to leave their families, they remained satisfied with whatever salary they get though it proves quite unmatchable with market price. The sudden rise in the market has created an opportunity for this sudden outburst.

The government is in problem. Virtually it has lost control over many things. The tenure of the government is also approaching the end; the workers might have thought it to be a convenient time to press home their demands. As the government will abide by their demands in order to return to power and side-by-side they will enjoy the support of the opposition. The opposition is already agitating against the government over caretaker government issue, they threatened also to create chaos in every sector to unseat the government and press home their demands. So they might have some silent or inward support for these workers.

The leaders of BGMEA and BKMEA have drawn attention to the enviable 28 percent growth in knitwear exports this fiscal, they claimed that Bangladesh garment has not only survived in the quota-free regime since last year but also made ominous progress for rival countries. This situation has outraged the neighbouring countries and they have attempted to destroy this industry in Bangladesh. As a part of their nefarious design, hundreds and thousands of outsiders have destabilised several hundred well-established garment industries in Dhaka and its adjoining areas.

This will definitely discourage any form of foreign or local investment. State Minister for Home who paid a visit to the affected areas and commented in the same line, "Its a conspiracy by our competitors to destroy the garment sector in our country. Suspicious persons were seen at the spots and we are working on it. We will protect our country as well as our industry at any cost." This idea cannot be ruled out when Sahadat Hossian, Vice-president of BGMEA asked this question, "Eighty percent of garment workers are women. Did you see any female workers on the streets during this agitation? He added that a vested group riding on trucks raided different factories and spread rumours of workers getting killed in places." This news suddenly infuriated the garment workers and they came to the street and started vandalising along with the conspirators. "Action will be taken against the persons involved in the conspiracy and my minstry will provide assistance to the affected owners," Commerce Minister Md. Hafizuddin said who also visited different affected industries.

Tens of thousands rampaged through the city and its suburbs to press home their 11point demand and came to the streets ransacking and setting fire to garments plants, other industrial units, and vehicles besides some business establishments and a few housed along the Dhaka-Mymensingh highway which claimed one person and at least 100 people were injured. Over 250 factories and 200 vehicles were ransacked. Twenty policemen were also injured. Exporters Association BGMEA said 300 garment factories including 21 of Dhaka EPZ in Savar were damaged in the two-day chaos and vandalism causing a loss of no less than Taka 400 crore to the garment business.

The history of garment industry in our country dates back to more than twenty years. It has passed through many ups and downs over the years and now it has reached upto a reasonable stage though not satisfactory stage. In this age of globalisation it seems almost difficult to cope with outside world. But the contribution of poor labour and continuous unemployment has helped to raise these industries to a flourishing position. It has crossed the fear of being avoided by the world market. It has proved itself capable enough to survive in the face of open competition in the world market. No quota system and facility it enjoys now.

This industry is said to have been the vein of our foreign exchange. 76 percent of our export income comes from this sector. Fourteen lakhs workers mostly of whom belong to our hapless and poverty stricken rural teenage girls. Our limited agriculture cannot hold more labour. Garment has come up with the solution of employment problem showing a ray of hope in the lives of hundreds and thousands of families who had to remain half-fed and half clad. Their contribution to national economy was supposed to receive serious attention over the years. Unfortunately their sufferings and pains went unnoticed. No valid organizations or social group came so far in favour of garment workers' demands, wants and sufferings. No provision has yet been made to establish a Reasonable Trade Union in this vital industrial sector. No group or mediator has been in existence to negotiate between the workers and the owners.

The owners of garment industries constitute mostly higher middle class with some possible exception. Their financial loss will exert serious pressure and negative effect on our national economy. The sector needs urgent attention from the government and opposition, as the country, countrymen and industries have become hostage to our political parities whose real contribution to national economy registers very poor. Whereas the close cooperation of the political parties is a must to lead forward the industries of the country. When the party in power tries to look into the welfare of the industries, the same party shows extremely irresponsible and even quite hostile behaviours towards industries when in the opposition. Again government control means some obstacles to export or develop production as it makes channels of corruption and taking bribes of some so-called government employees. Government control means to broaden the illegal money making for some government officials who shoulder these responsibilities. In the greater interest of the nation it serous to be scrutinised and addressed so that garment industry can imprint a real vibrant economic sector.

The sudden and emotional impulse and behaviour of some garment workers has suddenly changed the landscape of our vital industry within a short period of time incurring hundreds of national economy and casting a threatening gloom over the industry. The foreign investors and buyers will cease their support towards this industry, which will directly go against the interest of the country. Now where these workers will go and work? How will they satisfy their hunger for food? How will they survive and support their poor family members living in villages? How will they buy food the next day and next day after when they have destabilised several hundred industries?

Which has suddenly impelled hundreds and thousands of garment workers to destabilise, set on fire and ransack the industries where they earn their breads? Was it any instigation? Or foreign trick? Or conspiracy? When these questions are coming now why no precautionary measures are taken against these probable dangers. Not only the government but also the BGMEA and BKMEA leaders should have given thoughts to these questions. They should have taken ample precautionary measures much earlier. Why the leaders did not give serious thought and eye toward the wage, health, sanitation, job-security and life security of the poor workers who prove to be an integral and unavoidable part of garment industry. Why many of them had to sacrifice their lives due to the lack of security measures which caused fire in several garment industries? Why didn't they think that a handsome personal and national income accrues at the cost of these poor labourers' sweat? Don't they deserve fair deal from the owners and from the states?

The writer works for the PACE Programme, BRAC.