Performing Hajj: Experience of a pilgrim

The arrival at Jeddah airport was a mess having our luggage not being carried in that flight, but brought by a subsequent flight after one hour or so. We were told to wait till our bus was arranged through the Muallim or his agent who would complete the necessary formalities. All the passengers showed patience, a gesture that a would be Hajji is expected to respect. It took more than five hours to complete all the formalities and subsequently we were asked to march to the bus stand in a single line. The journey to Holy Mecca took about three hours. The first thing that we were expected to do in Mecca was to perform Omra (Tawaaf and Saiie) to be free from Ehrem at the earliest possible time and that we did satisfactorily. Saying special prayer near Makam-e Ibrahim and drinking water from Jamjam fountain are other rituals that I performed before Saiie.

Because of the tight schedule of Hajj, we did not venture to perform Nafal Omrah as we tried to keep ourselves fit for the actual functions and rituals. During our short period of stay in Mecca, we performed Nafal Tawaaf and paid visit to some historic places. During the Nafal Tawaaf, I managed to touch the wall of the Kaba. I just can't express the feelings that I had. It was as if I had come so close to Allah to receive his blessings and I was shivering. However, because of heavy rush I could not touch Hajre Aswaad (black stone). It was extremely difficult to find any pocket to move during Tawaaf. On the eighth of Jilhajj we moved to Meena by bus. We were instructed to take minimum luggage to Meena as it was for a short period of stay and that we did. On the ninth of Jilhajj, early in the morning we moved to Arafat. At Arafat, one is expected to say Johar and Asar prayer at one time, if possible at Masjid Namera. Since my family members were not that eager to go to Masjid Namera, I took the liberty to join one group which was on the move. But the mistake I did was not having any map or address of the camp. Halfway to the mosque, our group disappeared and I found myself along with two other Bangladeshi Hajjis from a different camp. We managed to occupy some place just in front of the Masjid gate and completed our prayer.

Returning to camp alone seemed to be an adventure and I was nowhere to the camp. There were other Hajjis looking for their camps. Since I could not speak Arabic that was another hindrance in finding the proper direction. I walked for more than two hours to the most likely directions but in vain. So far so good, I calmed myself not to be panicked and determined to find the camp, I walked back to Masjid Namera. Recollecting my sense of direction to the camp, I started for the camp again but soon I discovered that I was in the wrong direction. At one telephone booth, I found a Bengali speaking young man residing in Saudi Arabia and explained my problem. I had the Muallim's telephone number on the badge and the Muallim was kind enough to inform that our camp was far off from where I was roaming about. One security/guide advised that I better go to Mujdalifah and don't worry about my family as they were in the camp and they would travel to Mujdalifah and obviously return to Meena the next day. By then it was getting dark, and few of the camps withdrawn. I found Hajjis saying special prayer. That was something unique to see millions of Hajjis standing and praying in groups here and there.

I spent the night at Mujdalifah under the open sky (it's the same for all) after saying my prayer. I also collected stones/pebbles for throwing at the Satans. Early in the morning of 10th Jilhajj, I started off to Meena with a Bangladeshi group but soon found myself alone as they had to go in a different direction for their camp. Fortunately, I found one Bangladeshi and asked him about the main road leading to Meena and Bangladesh Hajj office. Once I found the road, it was easy to reach our camp. I found some of my known Hajjis who told me not to worry about my family members as they had traveled to Mujdalifah together. So I waited for them to arrive by bus. But then there was heavy traffic jam and some Hajjis arrived on foot and said that because of the jam my family members were also coming on foot. It was almost midday, so I left a message for them and went to throw stone at the Large Satan (Jamratul Kuba) along with other Hajjis. It was not an easy task. There were millions of Hajjis flocking towards the Large Satan and with difficulties I managed to complete the ritual. There were some unfortunate incident resulting in casualties including that of security members. The most critical area appeared to be just within the radius of 3m to 5m of throw area. When I returned to the camp, I found my family members waiting anxiously for me. Unfortunately, there was a sad incident, as there happened to be a stampede. They said that they were very tired and upset about the whole incident and requested me to throw stones at the Large Satan on their behalf.

For the next two days a person has to perform certain rituals which are obligatory to complete Hajj. These are: throw stones at the small, medium and the large Satan (these are symbolic stone structures/pillars representing the three Satans who misled Bibi Hazera, wife of Hazrat Ibrahim (peace be upon him). On the tenth of Jilhajj, we had to arrange for Qurbani and Dom (a secondary Qurbani to compensate for any error/wrong done during the Hajj). One can do this Qurbani through the approved bank, the agency itself and it is even possible to arrange this sacrifice through friends or relatives living in Mecca or nearby. We arranged for our Qurbani through the agency. It was necessary that I shaved off my hair after Qurbani and cut off my wife's hair partly. It was only at this stage that we were free from our Ehrem. The next morning on the 11th of Jilhajj, we went to Mecca and Herem Sharif to complete our Tawaaf- e-Ifada. Because of the rush as thousands of Hajjis had to perform this in a short span of time, we had to perform our Tawaaf on the first floor. It took about five hours to complete the Tawaaf and Saiee. Indeed it was tiresome but fortunately we were able to complete. As it is obligatory to return to Meena to spend the night, we returned to Meena in the evening. We hired a microbus along with other Hajjis but unfortunately the driver did not know the exact route and asked us to walk about 700m to reach the Small Satan as that is the starting point. So far so good, we managed to throw stones at the Small, Medium and the Large Satan and return to our camp in Meena.

On the 12th of Jilhajj we repeated the same rituals of throwing stones at the Small, Medium and the Large Satan consecutively and returned to Mecca later in the evening with our group. This trip to Mecca was a chaos. Moreover, we were informed that there was shortage of buses and hence about two hundred Hajjis had to travel in two buses only. It was fully overloaded. Although there was not that traffic jam, the driver appeared to be an outsider who could not identify the route to Herem Sherif. He circled around outskirts of Mecca within the vicinity of Herem Sharif. For about two hours he circled the same route and the Hajjis started losing patience. At last, he was forced to stop at certain point and we managed to find the route to Herem Sharif. This is the service you may expect from your agency, even though the responsibility of arranging all local transports lies with the Muallim and or his representatives.

Our next agenda was the trip to Medina for a period of eight days to complete 40 Waqts of prayer, although it is not obligatory to Hajj but it is imperative that all Hajjis do so. Masjid-e-Nabbi where we said our prayer is of significant architectural beauty. While in Medina, we paid visit to some historic places such as Masjid-e-Kuba, Masjid-e-Alkubatain, battle field of Ohud etc.

The package was such that we had to travel to Jeddah directly from Medina to take our return flight. On the morning of 23 Jilhajj, we were off to Jeddah. Here again the agency/Muallim was not able to organise the trip properly. The loading started about 6.30 in the morning and it took about two hours to complete the loading. We had to wait for another bus to follow ours. By the time we were out of Medina it was about 11 am. The trip to Jeddah airport took about six hours and this time the driver was a newcomer too. By mistake we were taken to the normal departure lounge in lieu of Air Saudia terminal and once again we were circling around the airport to find the terminal. It took another two ours to find the terminal as it turned out that the Syrian driver could not speak Arabic properly. Some of our fellow Hajjis directed him and we reached at the terminal. Once at the terminal, it was time for check in. In the mean time we were informed that, part of our unused bus fare could be refunded at the airport counter so arranged for. But due to slow work and perhaps due to language problem, I was in the queue for more than two hours without any luck. The return flight was satisfactory and we safely made it to our home the next morning.

A few points here for those intending to perform Hajj this year. First, find about your travel/Hajj agency from your friends or relatives if you intend not to go through government Hajj Management Committee. Services provided by the government committee are in no way any better than the others. Since all the agencies offer you whatever you may ask for, make sure that they provide you proper services and assistance.

Try to obtain proper address, map and camp number before you decide to go to Masjid Nameera at Arafat. Always stick to your group. Obtain two to three mobile phone numbers of other Hajjis you are travelling with. Most likely that you will find some Hajjis having the phones.

I can't think of any means to improve the situation at the three Satans (Zamrats). Verily Allah is the most gracious, the most benevolent and saviour of all.

A few tips for our Hajj Management Committee: Would it be possible to arrange one or more talk show through the BTV? This discussion could explain the procedures and formalities that the Hajjis are expected to perform. The members of this group could be from those who have performed Hajj and representatives from the agencies as well.

No wonder, the coordination and administration of such a gigantic task of managing Hajj performance of millions of Muslims by the Saudi Hajj Authority deserves extra thanks. However, the following points may be noted for further improvement:

- Try to shorten the waiting time on arrival at the Jeddah airport by ensuring that Muallim or his representative is present for arranging the transport to Mecca. This should not take more than two to three hours.

- Maintain toilet facilities proper and clean at the airport. In addition, the toilet facilities in Meena being flexible should be supported with hooks instead of being littered on the floor.

- The temporary drivers engaged during the Hajj period should be thoroughly briefed about the direction and locations of places to be traveled.

- Engage trained volunteers, if possible non Arab English speaking to assist the Hajjis, specifically in Arafat. Put up sign boards, maps etc in sufficient numbers for the Hajjis to find their way to the camp if they ar

- During the last span of years the authorities have improved the conditions and facilities for the comfort and ease of Hajjis. In this connection, would it be too much to expect that the authorities consider introducing high velocity train (HVT) between Mecca, Meena, Arafat and Mujdalifah`. This could be a circular train line not exceeding 60 km. That way it would save and reduce travel time significantly, reduce traffic jam and reduce accidents that are not desirable. As a result the Hajjis would be able to devote more time to prayer and other activities/rituals that they are expected to perform.